040619 Black Rocks

Overview: The Black Rocks are still where the true root of my climbing heart lies. Not only just up the road from Turnditch, but it has so many fantastic looking climbs, with possibly the highest star-average anywhere in the Peak. Admittedly, the climbing there tends to be at the nutter end, even for the easier grades, but Gaia will always call to me...

Rout 2 (1* VS 5a):

Solo (BM) - A nice warm-up route on the way up to the main event... Not too sure about the 5a bit, bit a reasonably easy VS.

Route 1 (1* HVS 4c ):

Solo (BM) - Second of the warm-ups. A very confusing route - so I've always simply stuck to the blunt arrete, moving slightly right at about 2/3 height, then finishing straight. Against Route 2, this doesn't feel harder enough to warrant HVS, but I guess it's 4c all the way... Hmmm.

Island of Sodor (1* E1 5c):

Solo (BM) - I've finally decided the the finish is straight up, using the obvious holds on the right, but staying as far left as is sensible. Top move slightly tenious, but I don't agree with either the route or technical grading, both being too high.

Central Buttress Direct (1* E1 5a):

Led - Interesting. The crux is NOT well protected, as a fall from it would involving hitting a ledge before being caught. The crux itself is either a long reach on wonderful slopers around to the left, or an awful crimp/smear move straight up the middle... Neither method is 5a. Nick seconded